Rykiel, Sonia

(1930- )

   Born in Paris as Sonia Flis, this woman of Polish Jewish heritage grew up aspiring to be a writer. However, after marrying Sam Rykiel in 1953, and with no formal fashion training, she began designing maternity wear while pregnant with her first child, selling them in her husband's clothing store in 1962. By 1964, her trendy poor boy-signature black striped sweaters were selling to hip New York retailers Henri Bendel and Bloomingdale's. In 1968, she opened her own Left Bank boutique, catering to a youthful, bohemian customer and she pioneered the boutique movement in Paris that spread throughout Europe from London. Dubbed the "Queen of Knits" by Women's Wear Daily, Rykiel expanded the collection to include eveningwear, sportswear, and accessories, always with a hint of wit. For example, her rhinestone "messages" plastered on jackets, dresses, and belts, and her reversed or raw-edge seaming details were considered rebellious yet were extremely popular. By 1975, she expanded her business to include household items and, in 1978, tried her hand as an interior designer, creating decoration for the Hotel Crillon on the place Vendome. With her signature red hair, high cheekbones, and regal expression, in 1980, she was chosen as one of the world's most elegant women. By 1993, Rykiel added childrenswear, menswear, shoes, fragrances, and lingerie to her empire. The company is 100 percent family-owned with Sonia designing collection, her sister designing accessories, and her daughter, Nathalie, acting as creative director for the company and operating Rykiel Women, a store that has been selling intimate sexual toys and streetwear since 2002. Among Rykiel's honors are the medal of Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur in 1985 and her 30th anniversary show at the Bibliothèque nationale de France in 1998. Rykiel served as vice-president of the Chambre Syndicale, sang a duet with Malcolm McClaren, and has authored seven books to date.